Isle of Islay – The Queen of Hebrides is the southern-most island of Inner Hebrides and a 5th largest Scottish island. Circa 3300 people call Islay their home and most of them live in the capital of the island, Bowmore.
Lets start with some interesting facts about Islay:
- Around 50% of the island’s population speak Gaelic.
- The main industries on the island are farming (famous Islay cows are everywhere), fishing, whisky industry (as many as 9 whisky distilleries on Islay!) and tourism, of course.
- “Islay wave“ is a unique way of saying hello while on the move. What does it mean, you may ask. If you have driven on any Scottish island you probably already know that people wave to each other when thanking for letting pass on a passing place. On Islay, however, people wave from their car when they drive past you. We literally loved it; make sure you join in while driving on Islay.
We visited Islay in 2020, it was our second attempt to visit the island and I am so glad we succeeded this time. Few years ago we planned cycling and island hopping between Arran, Islay and Jura but that didn’t work out due to ferry connections and our holiday schedules.
So this time when a friend said we could stay in her cottage in Port Charlotte, we were so grateful and made sure we enjoyed our time exploring new trails.
However, this last visit had one downside; visiting places during Covid-19 pandemic was a different experience than it would have been under the ‘normal’ circumstances– we couldn’t participate in whisky tours, or eat out. However, we could still enjoy the great outdoors! And so we did!
Our visit on Islay was amazing and we could indulge ourselves into the slower peace and relaxed ambience of the island. We walked and cycled many kilometers and will share with you our favourite places, and how to best enjoy them.
HOW TO GET TO ISLE OF ISLAY
Islay still remains a relatively peaceful place (comparing to Arran or Isle of Skye, for example) potentially because it is not as dramatic as Skye, or much trickier to get to (comparing to Arran or Mull).
Getting to Islay by air
The quickest way to get to Islay is on the Loganair flight from Glasgow. There are daily flights and the flight time is 45 minutes. On a clear day you can see Islay and neighbouring islands from the sky – priceless!
It is unfortunately the most expensive way of travelling with fight prices ranging between £83 and nearly £200 each way (prices 2026), so you need to plan smart if you want to avoid high fees.
Then you have a choice to use local buses or hire the car to move around the island. At the moment there are two rental companies on Islay:
- Islay Car Hire – with an office in Islay Airport and in Bridgend, they supply cars to the Airport and both Ferry Terminals.
- Cresswell Cars, formerly known as D & N Mackenzie, book your car online and pick it up from the airport or ferry terminal.
Getting to Islay by car
Whether a foot passenger, or taking your own car you have choice to either take a ferry from Kennacraig or Oban.
Calmac ferry from Kennacraig is the cheapest way to travel to Islay from mainland Scotland. And you can arrive either to Port Ellen or Port Askaig. The ferry journey takes around 2h to both towns. Check out the timetable to determine your final destination port.
Calmac ferry from Oban to Port Askaig –more expensive and less frequent connection, however if you are in Oban area, this is a great option, especially if you think about incorporating a visit to Colonsay as well. The journey takes circa 4 hrs. Check the timetable & fares here.
Note: Please always check the service status beforehand, as ferries can be cancelled at short notice.
We highly recommend booking your ferry in advance! Vehicle check-in closes 30 minutes prior to departure, foot passenger should arrive no later than 10min before departure.
Please note that Islay community asks that those arriving to the island by campervan/motorhome should secure a pitch for their vehicle on the island in advance of travelling. We know that it is not always possible to book all nights, but ensure you will stay some nights at paid location, that is your way of supporting locals.
HOW TO EXPLORE ISLAY
Exploring Isle of Islay by public transport
Islay has good bus service, however as it usually the case on the Scottish islands, the buses connect main towns/villages, and additionally on Islay, most of distilleries. However, I am pretty confident that the bus drivers will let you off in places on your request. If you are a foot passenger please base yourself in Bowmore or Port Ellen, for most convenient public transport options. See bus timetable here.
Travelling on Isle of Islay by bike
Another fantastic way to explore Islay is by bike. If you prefer a slower peace or if bike is your main means of transport, cycling around Islay will be an unforgettable experience. We have cycled on some minor roads and really enjoyed the experience.
If you arrive as foot passenger, the good news is that you could hire an e-bike from Islay E Wheels. You can pick up the bike in Port Ellen or have it delivered to any location across the island, for a charge of £10 (but only for 3 or more bikes).
WHERE TO STAY ON ISLAY
Before moving further, have a look at these handpicked places to stay! We divided them into 3 groups, budget, mid-range and luxury accommodation.
Budget options
Port More Centre – a large campsite with good facilities and community bistro/café at the site. We have not camped overnight but catered there while staying in Port Charlotte. The site is open from beginning of March till end of November and welcomes tents, campervans and motorhomes.
Port Charlotte Youth Hostel – fantastic hostel with good facilities and very friendly staff. We might be biased but we believe that during your time on Islay you should spend some time in Port Charlotte area, there is much to do and see!
Mid-range options
Islay pods– glamping, glamping, glamping!!
Cala Sith Guesthouse in Port Ellen is highly appreciated for its convenient location, cleanliness and breakfast, and more importantly for the hostess, Rona!
Orsay House in Portnahaven, highly recommended for the peaceful location in beautiful fishing village, facilities and extra-friendly hosts
Port Charlotte Hostel, located in lovely Port Charlotte, a stunning base for exploration of western part of Islay and the Rhinns hills. The hostel is highly praised for location near the coast, cleanliness, facilities and friendly helpful staff
Luxury stays
Port Charlotte Hotel, located directly at the coast, rooms with seaview, highly praised restaurant and full of charm
Shorefield cottage in Bruichladdich, large and spacious country house located directly on the shore, conveniently located in proximity to Port Charlotte and Bowmore
Glenegedale House, located close to the main Islay transit routes, only a short drive from Bowmore and Port Ellen, near the airport. Highly acclaimed for its boutique hotel charm
BEST THINGS TO DO ON ISLAY
… and finally… drumroll…things to do on Isle of Islay, plus some of the activities we enjoyed on the island.
For many visitors Islay screams ‘whisky!’, but soon you’ll discover that there’s much more to the Queen of Hebrides than just the golden spirit.
1.Visit the famous whisky distilleries of Islay
Islay is famous for its whisky distilleries, in fact for some this is a sole reason for visiting the island.
You might think that you are not much into whisky, and you will be tempted to skip the whisky tour but I can guarantee that these tours are super informative and fun, moreover you will be able to taste some of best whiskies in the world. We have gone for our whisky experience on Orkney and absolutely loved it. So on a rainy day do not think twice and go for a whisky tour in one of the nine distilleries of Islay. And do not forget to share your experience with us!
If you are into whisky, you will find yourself in a whisky paradise, thanks to abundance of peat, the Isla’s whiskies have very characteristic smoky flavour.
As mentioned, there are nine distilleries, some more known than others, but all producing fantastic whiskies and putting their own stamp on the visitor experience. Since during our visits we could only explore the surroundings, we are not giving any advice on the tour experiences available, but have provided the links to the distilleries’ website for your convenience.
The nine distilleries of Islay are:
- Ardbeg Distillery – on top of fantastic whisky and modern visitor experience, fantastic location and Old Kiln Cafe make this distillery one of the most popular.
- Bunnahabhain Distillery – is known for its unpeated, natural coloured and non-chill filtered whisky. Due to its location near Port Askaig the views towards Jura and its stunning Paps of Jura are second to none.
- Kilchoman Distillery – we literally love everything about this distillery. It is Islay’s only farm distillery and they are self-sufficient at every stage of the production. They grow their own barley (during our visit we witnessed the harvest), own their malting floor and bottle the whisky themselves. During Covid-19 restrictions, the distillery offered whisky tasting experience on nearby Machir Bay beach!
- Caol Ila Distillery is currently closed due to construction works, in the meantime you can sample Caol Ila whisky in Lagavulin distillery.
- Ardnahoe Distillery – Ardnahoe prides “itself on being a modern distillery, set beautifully in a stunning location, and employing rigorously traditional methods and values. The spirit produced is sweet, smoky and smooth yet peaty and spicy – unique and dynamic to its very core”.
- Bowmore Distillery – easily accessible, located in the centre of Islay’s capital, Bowmore, just off high street.
- Laphroaig Distillery – is the iconic Islay brand, and I think the distillery experience is not to be missed as you will learn all about the traditional way of making the whisky. The distillery still cut their own peat and malt their barley before smoking it in the peat kilns.
- Lagavulin Distillery – Lagavulin Single Malt Whisky is characterized by its strong peat flavour and iodine overtones. The iodine flavour tends to divide tasters into ‘love it’ or ‘hate it’ groups with no middle ground, and it may not be the best for new ‘Scotch drinkers’.
- Bruichladdich Distillery located near Port Charlotte. This distillery set their goal to be innovative and bold in finding new flavours.
A handy hint on visiting 3 famous distilleries in one go
Walk/cycle from Port Ellen to the 3 Kildalton Distilleries!
One adventurous way of enjoying three distilleries Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg, located near Port Ellen, is walking or cycling from Port Ellen on manmade cycle/walking paths. Most of the time the marked trail runs along A846 road and will take you through beautiful countryside with stunning coastal views.
The terrain is almost perfectly flat, distance approx. 6 km each way. You may wish to extend the cycling trip and visit the historic chapel and Celtic cross at Kildalton (additional 14 km return, from Ardbeg). To make the cycling trip easier you can hire an Ebike at Islay E-wheels
2. Cycling on Islay
It’s impossible to overrate the cycling experience offered by Islay! The abundance of quiet country roads makes the island a perfect cycling destination. Whether you’d like to go for a ride or just use the bike as means of transport while visiting local landmarks below are some ideas of amazing bike rides on Islay
2.1 Rinns of Islay circular (28km, difficulty: moderate, navigation: easy)
Rinns are rolling hills of western leg of Islay, mostly accommodated for farming, pastures, crofts and moorlands. The hills offer a dense web of quiet tracks and farm access roads, blessed with very little road traffic.
We thoroughly enjoyed cycling on quiet roads of Islay and one of the routes we highly recommend is a 28km loop route from Port Charlotte, via Portnahaven (Port Wemyss) and Kilchiaran.
Port Charlotte is a good starting point as it features plenty of on-street parking (if you’re based elsewhere). Take the road A847 towards Portnahaven/Port Wemyss. It is enjoyable, mostly flat route along the coast, with sea views. On the arrival to Port Wemyss/Portnahaven you may be tempted to drop a bike and explore the village on foot, don’t stop yourselves. Have a look at Orsay and Mhic Coinnich, small islands off the coast (boat trips available), or enjoy a walk along the coast, towards Claddach, to discover small local beaches.
If visiting in late summer or early autumn listen for growls coming from the islands and hidden coves, if you hear scary dragon-like calls look out for seal colonies. You would be surprised that during the mating seasons, the friendly cuddly seals turn into mighty creatures able to produce growls that bring to mind the scariest dragons!
Leaving Portnahaven follow the narrow track (Church Street) to Lossit and further to Kilchiaran. This winding hilly road will challenge you in several spots, but the reward is in serene scenery and sandy beaches, will make it worthwhile. The longest downhill ride is a hill past Tormisdale, and the steepest section is a climb past Kilchiaran. This area is also known for cows blocking the road, so don’t be surprised to come across a very special traffic jam.
Once up the big hill at Kilchiaran a pleasant country road will take you along the edge of a forest, a deer farm, and soon you’ll enjoy an amazing long downhill ride back to Port Charlotte. This simple online map will help you with planning the route.
2.2 Port Charlotte to Sanaigmore and Saligo Sands, including Loch Gorm circular and Kilchoman Distillery (38km, difficulty: moderate, navigation: moderate)
Another great cycling route to start from Port Charlotte is an explorer route of the northern Rinns. This cycling route follows minor and farm access roads with an exception of a short section of A847. At the top of Loch Indaal take a left turn into a minor road B818 (signposted to Kilchoman Distillery) for a quiet and virtually traffic–free ride. Keep to the right at the fork past RockMountain cottage, this track will take you around Loch Gorm. Some good reasons to take this quiet road are peaceful ambience of Islay’s farmlands, abundance of protected birds and views over the loch to wild coastline of Machir Bay and Saligo Bay; each a home to stunning gold-sanded beach! Continue ahead at the lone telephone box to arrive to Saligo Bay parking bay. Why not take a short stroll to the beach? Cycling at the western side of Loch Gorm requires some effort, as is uphill but the view to Machir Bay will distract you well from leg pain!
This corner of Islay is particularly charming, the beautiful secluded beach, a tiny settlement with historic church (ruins) and a unique distillery (Kilchoman) make the trip worthwhile.
To complete the circular route and return to the main road A847 take the hilly road on the southern side of Loch Gorm and cycle straight ahead, ignoring all forks and exits. We prepared a simple online map to help you with navigating along this route.
2.3 Port Charlotte or Bruichladdich to Loch Gruinart Nature Reserve and/or Ardnave Point (40km, difficulty: moderate, navigation: moderate)
One of the finest destinations for a cycling trip on Islay is Loch Gruinart Nature Reserve. Loch Gruinard is a unique feature of Islay, basically it’s a fjord-like shallow bay that cuts deep in the land, creating a habitat for thousands of birds as well as other species closely related to the sea and water based feed (for example otters). The reserve is a fine location for a remote walk, with views to Jura and the famous Paps (Jura’s mountains) so a cycling trip to Loch Gruinart can be easily turned onto a full day outdoor expedition!
To find out more about unmissable locations of Loch Gruinart Nature Reserve visit the tourist information point at Aoradh or RSPB website.
If you’re for a longer ride and less walking we recommend cycling to Ardnave, at the western side of Loch Gruinart. Along the way you will have a chance to visit a true gem, a historic chapel (cross and a graveyard) at Kilnave. Overlooking the shallow bay the chapel is a testament to the untamed forces of nature and power of Scottish weather. Online map of the route is available here.
2.4 Port Askaig to the two distilleries: Caol Ila and Bunnahabhain (13km, difficulty: moderate, navigation: easy)
Apart from the Kildalton run (see point 2.6), Islay offers another fine distillery bike ride. The wild northern shores of Islay, off Port Askaig, feature virtually traffic-free access tracks to Caol Ila and Bunnahabhain distillery. Despite the short distance (6.5 km each way) prepare yourself for a hilly ride, exposed to the harsh elements of Scottish weather!
The distilleries are somewhat hidden in coves, with a backdrop of stunning Paps of Jura, you can be sure that the dramatic scenery and view across Sound of Islay will take your breath away! Online map to help you with navigating the route.
2.5 Port Ellen to Carraig Fhada lighthouse and Singing Sands beach (8km, difficulty: easy/moderate, navigation: easy)
Carraig Fhada lighthouse (also known as Port Ellen lighthouse) is a pair of 2 square towers, 17 metres tall, erected in 1832. The most unique feature of Carraig Fhada lighthouse is its squared shape, very uncommon in Scotland. The lighthouse is located at the far end of Kilnaughton Bay, only a short ride from the town of Port Ellen (distance is less than 8k return, but the ride in somewhat hilly). Other fine landmarks to visit along the way to Carraig Fhada are Kilnaughton beach and a historic chapel, a couple of monuments. The famous lighthouse does attract visitors, however not everyone is aware that just around a corner you can find a lovely sandy beach, called by locals ‘Singing Sands’. An overgrown path leads to the beach (look out for a small wooden arrow ‘to singing sands’, just before the farm). Need help planning the route? This online map is a perfect tool!
2.6 Port Ellen to Mull of Oa and American Monument (20km, difficulty: hard, navigation: moderate)
A very challenging bike ride (approx. 10km each way), possibly the toughest on Islay is the explorer route from Port Ellen to the American Monument on Mull of Oa. Being a beautiful and wild area, the Mull is also very hilly, with many steep climbs that, for some, may be challenging even when driving! In the summer a strong smell of flowers and lush vegetation will divert your attention from hard going, at the same time you will be tempted to rest and break the route many times. What also deserves a couple of words is the quality of local roads on Mull of Oa. Frankly, they’re bad, with damaged surface and deep potholes; a road bike may not particularly like it, I think that the best would be a hybrid bike with sturdier tyres.
A splendid idea would be to combine the bike ride to Mull of Oa with a hike along the dramatic cliffs of the southernmost headland of Islay. Such hike in unmarked and requires careful navigating if you’d like to explore further than the obvious paths, or maybe even climb Beinn Mhor?! Online map to help you with route planning.
2.7 Port Ellen to Kildalton Celtic cross via 3 distilleries (26km, difficulty: easy, navigation: easy)
A fine 26 km ride (there and back) that will take you to visit the famous distilleries of Port Ellen, Lagavulin, Laphrohaig and Ardbeg on your way to charming settlement of Kildalton and its historic chapel and Celtic cross. Even a shorter ride (12km there and back) to visit the 3 distilleries alone is worthwhile.
Start the ride by Port Ellen town beach, take a left turn to A846 signposted to Ardbeg (3 miles) and enjoy the scenic route. We previously mentioned the cycling route to the 3 distilleries (look back to the ‘handy tip’ in point 1 (Distilleries) and would like to emphasize how enjoyable the ride is!
Points to remember/motivate you: it does take you to the 3 famous distilleries, is mostly signposted off road paved trail, very few uphill sections, runs across beautiful countryside with fine seaviews, passes remains of a Dunyvaig Castle, can be extended to include Kildalton Chapel and Celtic cross, a great half day to full day cycling adventure!
3. Hiking on Islay
Some of the finest walks on Islay we can wholeheartedly recommend are:
- Mull of Oa and the American Monument (coastal)
- Kilchiaran to Machir Bay (coastal)
- Ardnave Point circular (coastal)
- Paps of Jura, on nearby Isle of Jura (mountain)
Let’s have a closer look at each of these hikes to get excited about spending quality time in marvellous nature
3.1 Mull of Oa and the American Monument
A couple of hours is all you need to enjoy this circular walk at the southern tip of Mull of Oa. A hilly and winding road will take you to a spacious car free park, marked as Mull of Oa parking lot (why not challenge yourself and cycle to the trailhead!?)
We recommend continuing along the track at the far side of the car park while looking out for a trail leaving the track at the sharp bend. Walk towards the American Monument, an obvious destination. The trail underfoot can be very wet in places, but any swampy bits are easy to bypass. A herd of Highland Cattle may casually come to investigate who you are, but if you ignore them and don’t interact they will lose interest. A high tower of American Monument commemorates a tragedy at sea and is the best landmark in the area, visible from afar. Further, the trail follows the cliff edge, with dramatic views and wild waves crushing. Several paths keep to the cliffs with plenty of viewpoints. Finally, after passing the 3rd fence the trail leaves the cliff edge to approach a farm, at Upper Killeyan. It is possible to continue further along the cliffs and walk as far as Beinn Mhor, but the clear tourist trail runs only as far as the farm and returns to the parking lot. If planning a longer walk ensure to have a map and trusty hiking boots as the terrain is difficult with lots of steep descents/ascents. The photo below will give you an idea what to expect before a final climb up a heathery slope to the top of the highest clifftop of Oa, Beinn Mhor (202masl).
Without a doubt a walk to American Monument and a loop along tourist trail is worthwhile and the coastal scenery will leave you speechless!
3.2 Kilchiaran to Machir Bay (coastal)
The highlight of this hike is a beautiful, scenic beach at Machir Bay. The bay can be reached directly by car via Kilchoman, but we recommend an easy hike from Kilchiaran (the distance from Kilchiaran to the far end of Machir Bay is 5.5 km).
Having said that, please mind that Kilchiaran offers no parking facilities therefore a short cycle from Port Charlotte is the most recommended way of getting to the trailhead. The walk begins by crossing a farm yard (please be mindful and minimize your impact on farmers daily work) a graveled track will gently climb uphill towards small hills. In fact you could still cycle up the track past the farm and leave the bike at one of the wooden powerline pols. We tried that and thought that cycling on hybrid bikes up a track covered by loose gravel was quite hard, we believe mountain bikes would be more suitable and even take you as far as the beach itself!
Anyway, follow the track uphill, you will see that just before reaching the hills, the track turns left towards the coast. As you reach a pass the track gives way to a much narrower trail, one that runs along the foot of the hills. At this point you will see Machir Bay and beach not that far away ahead. Continue along the track as you approach the bay, look out for paths that fork from the main trail and run to the beach. Some of them end at the rocks with no safe descent, other meander on the upper meadow before suddenly finding a good way down to the beach. It is impossible to give details of which path exactly to take to get to the beach, you should employ your explorer spirit to find the best way down!
In our opinion Machir is probably the most beautiful beach on Islay, we visited it numerous times and in various weather conditions, from Kilchiaran side as well as Kilchoman. The beach is massive, walking all its length will take around 1 hour, you should also account for exploration of the dunes and possibly the hills?
A couple of words about the hills framing Machir Bay; they seem to be no more than small green bumps, however exploration of these is anything but a relaxing stroll, as we learned the hard way. You may be lucky and find some sheep paths leading uphill, but these usually end suddenly and pass some swampy ground, sometimes you may come across a barbed wire fence to climb over. We wouldn’t like to discourage you from exploration, but at the same time be warned.
One thing for sure, when visiting Machir you should primarily focus on the stunning beach and a labyrinth of coastal rock and dunes. Wandering along the beach you will see a high memorial cross and a small wartime graveyard. You can reach them via Kilchoman.
And last but not least, the broad sands of Machir Bay offer fantastic opportunity to fly a kite!
A pro tip on dealing with livestock along the route:
When walking to Machir Bay from Kilchiaran keep in mind that you’re passing farm grounds and pastures, expect to come across livestock, mostly cattle. Most of the time they won’t mind you, but in late summer/early autumn there will be mother cows with young calves and you should make sure to stay away from them, never come between them, and most importantly never go between the mother and her calf. The thing is that cows’ instinct may kick in and assume you present danger to their babies, in this case they may become aggressive or chase/injure you. If cows block your way and won’t move from the trail, you should bypass them off track (leave plenty of space).
3.3 Ardnave Point circular walk
This easy circular walk explores the area to the west from Loch Gruinart. Along the walk you’ll visit beautiful beaches, a historic grave monument, before reaching Ardnave Point with a view to rugged Nave Island and finally coming back via green pastures to Ardnave Loch where the dedicated car park is located.
Start the walk from the car park at Ardnave Loch, your first destination is a farm. By now you probably have got used to crossing farm yards while walking on Islay. Turn into the farm yard and having passed a barn, turn left. A muddy path runs along the barn and further thru another small yard, before finally leaving the buildings. Only a short walk farther you will already be approaching coastal rocks and a sandy beach, you may wander to the sand, or alternatively stick to the meandering trail at higher ground.
As you come nearer the tip of Ardnave watch out for an old grave (worth a visit), then don’t hesitate to explore nearby dunes. Soon you’ll come across a well-made gravel+sand track that will lead you back to the parking lot. This map does not reflect all paths of Ardnave Point, but may come useful during your walk.
A pro tip on visiting Ardnave Point beaches:
Try to always follow some kind of path rather than walking across the pastures, this will make navigating much easier. Moreover, good news is that Ardnave Point is home to countless sheep and you won’t encounter too many curious cows 🙂
The walk is just enjoyable on a sunny day as it is on a rainy one, however you should keep in mind that Ardnave Point offers no shelter and you will be totally on the elements mercy!
Despite visiting in horrible weather we still enjoyed the scenery and beaches!
3.4 Paps of Jura
Three quartzite cones on the northern horizon of Islay are Paps of Jura, mountains of the neighboring island. The Paps offer the finest hiking adventure on the Islay-Jura duo of islands and can be climbed as a 1 day trip form Islay. The 3 mountains can be climbed in one go, but such hike would be a hard day out suitable for strong seasoned walkers. As an alternative we recommend climbing only one of the Paps, Beinn an Oir (Mountain of Gold). Conveniently, we have already prepared a detailed guide to climbing the Paps of Jura, which gives comprehensive information on the 3 mountain hike as well as climbing the Mountain of Gold only. Make sure to have a good read thru it before deciding which option is most suitable for you, the article will help you with planning a day out on Jura!
Before heading to the Paps of Jura you should be aware that although these are wild mountains in the heart of a remote island they are very popular with locals and visitors alike due to their legendary beauty!
Why should you challenge yourself to conquer Jura’s spectacular mountains? To enjoy a fine walking experience unlike any other and to discover a wild remote Scottish island in its best! Paps of Jura are famous for their unchallenged beauty, you should not miss the opportunity to discover such spectacular location!
You may also like: The best islands for walking holidays in spring time
4. Stunning beaches of Islay
By now you’re fully aware that there is much more to Islay than whisky! Local nature and scenery is second to none, with golden sanded beaches amongst the most beautiful locations!
Just like you, we love a good beach walk so we’re very excited to share these amazing Islay beaches with you!
Some of these 6 beaches are pretty popular, other are hidden gems. Most importantly each of them is notable for other reasons!
Ladies and Gentlemen, the unmissable beaches of Islay are:
4.1 Machir Bay
4.2 Saligo Sands
4.3 Singing Sands at Carraig Fhada
4.4 Sanaigmore Bay
4.5 Ardnave Point (Traigh nam Fuaran)
4.6 Port Ellen town beach
4.1 Machir beach is probably the best known stretch of sand in Islay, and rightly so! The beautiful massive beach can be found at the western edge of Islay, washed by the turbulent waters of Atlantic Ocean. The beach is bordered by low dunes and machair (a Gaelic name for fertile low-lying grassy plain), further by rugged low hills, Rinns. At low tide the beach stretches for over 2 miles (very impressive!) and offers a fantastic opportunities for long walks.
A word of warning: at a stunning beach like Machir, on a calm day with water gently washing the shores you may feel invited to swim, however you should keep in mind that the Atlantic Ocean can be wild and unpredictable. The inviting water, in fact, hides very strong undercurrents. These are very dangerous! Swimming in Machir Bay is strongly discouraged due to high risk of drowning!
The beach is served by a dedicated car park; however we wholeheartedly recommend cycling to Machir Bay rather than driving, when possible. (we didn’t put a photo of Machir Bay at this point, but you have already seen the stunning scenery of Machir at the top of this article!)
4.2 Saligo Sands can be found only a short distance north from Machir Bay. This lesser known beach is smaller, but just as worth a visit. Quite possibly you will be exploring it without seeing another soul. Similarly to Machir, Saligo Sands is bordered by machair, and you can access it by a short walk from a tiny parking bay. Please remember you’re in a busy rural area, ensure to park your vehicle in a way that does not obscure access to pastures nor fields, yes, we know often it is quite tricky! Walk past the gate and between 2 wartime lookouts, then turn left and walk thru the machair to the boutique beach. Again, you may be tempted to enjoy the water, but please keep in mind that the ocean here hides very strong undercurrents. You may get in trouble when swimming at Saligo Sands!
Walking along the sands you will spot 3 cone shaped hills in the distance. These show the way to a tiny hidden beach (quite a walk!) than can also be accessed from Sanaigmore (continue reading to find out more!)
4.5 Singing Sands of Carraig Fhada are known for their beauty. Why ‘singing sands’ you may ask. Well, it is said that the sand makes a characteristic sound when walked upon. We can’t confirm this, during our visit the sand must have lost its voice. This, however, should not discourage you from visiting the Singing Sands, the location is lovely, a bit remote, although seeing Port Ellen at the other side of the bay may kill the ‘remoteness’ factor a bit. The tricky thing about visiting Singing Sands is that you won’t find many parking spaces along the way; driving all the way to the settlement and the lighthouse is frown upon by the locals.
A small parking spot, for approx. 3-4 car can be found here and it the best compromise between not having to walk far and annoying the locals. If you fancy a longer walk, why not drop the car at the cemetery (a much larger parking area) and walking the additional half a mile (with a chance to explore Kilnaughton Bay along the way.
How to find the Singing Sands? At the end of the road/track you will find several houses. Looking closely you will find a wooden signpost showing the way ‘To singing Sands’. A path will take you between back gardens and hedges, and soon you’ll see the beach ahead. Look out for feral goats roaming nearby meadows and enjoying the salty grass!
4.4 Sanaigmore Bay is one of the most remote corners of Islay, best accessible by car or by bike. In our opinion the best attraction of Sanaigmore Bay are the beautiful beaches, and rough coastal hills, the viewpoints. We have mentioned these hills while talking about Saligo Sands, but obviously they’re much closer from Sanaigmore. When arriving to Sanaigmore drop the car before reaching the farm, a dedicated parking area can be found at the road bend. The beach is only a couple of steps away. More hidden beaches can be found to the east from the main sands, but we recommend to focus on the western side. Walking along the coast you’ll come to a small beach hidden between two law cliffs, most definitely you should take your time to enjoy it. With some certainty we can say that you won’t be disturbed by another soul while exploring the coast to west from main beach, this corner of Islay tends to be very quiet. This remote beach, however, is not the end of surprises hidden at western end of Sanaigmore! The rough coastal hills are not easiest to climb, being steep and overgrown by heather, but you should consider how great viewpoints they are! Last but not least surprise, a hidden gem of a tiny cove can be found at the far end of a glen at the foot of the hills. Follow a line of the hills as they runs south-west and find yet another lovely cove with golden sand!
4.5 Ardnave Point is home to several beaches, or you could say that Adrnave peninsula is bordered by golden sand wherever possible (3 directions). Being located in proximity to Loch Gruinard Nature Reserve, one could only wish the tides to be low enough to enable a person to cross the loch and roam Ardnave Point beaches together with their eastern counterpart, Killinalan beach. Getting to Ardnave Point is not overly complicated, again, the easiest is driving (spacious parking area) or cycling. Follow a hard track to and thru farm yard, turn left past the barn and within minutes you’ll see the white sand. At low tide you may like to walk around Ardnave Point, all the way on the beach! However, for the return join a gravel track, running further inland, this will take you directly to the parking area. The easiest way to find the track is walking inland soon after you arrive to the mouth of Loch Gruinart. Adrnave takes its name from Nave island, only a short swim away (by no means take this as an encouragement!)
4.6 Port Ellen town beach may not be the most obvious choice for Islay beaches worth checking out, but all the same it’s a pleasant (plea-sand!) sight and a promise of a relaxing time! Being a part of Kilnaughton Bay, Port Ellen town beach is a stripe of golden sand gently washed by emerald waters. Locals love the town beach and use it for recreation, kayaking, picnics or simply sunbathing. Why not join the friendly crowd while you’re in town? You’d be surprised to know that Port Ellen has not just 1 but 2 beaches! The other, much smaller can be found near the marina.
5. Islay’s wildlife watching highlights
The Queen of Hebrides is a renowned for abundance of wildlife! Any nature lover has a chance to indulge in world class binocular/camera hunt for wild creatures. Below we’re sharing some of the best wildlife experiences available on/off Islay. Of course, the list is not exhaustive!
5.1 SEALS
BY our own experience we recommend Portnahaven area as a great ‘seal-watching’ ground! If you’re visiting during mating season you may be surprised by deep dragon-like growls coming from the water or small isles, skelligs and coves. This first experience of seal mating calls is unforgettable!
Having said that, you may spot seals anywhere off Islay, but the best known hotspots are Portnahaven harbou Port Wemyss, hidden coves between Lagavulin to Ardtalla and Loch Gruinart Nature Reserve.
5.2 OTTERS
The greatest number of otters on Islay found home in Loch Gruinart National Nature Reserve! The busy animals can also be spotted in other parts of Islay, usually near the shore or at the mouth of rivers. (sorry, we didn’t manage to get any decent photo of otters)
5.3 FERAL GOATS
Spotting wild goats is quite exciting, especially that similarly to deer, you may expect to come across some anywhere on Islay! A real hotspot for feral goats watching is The Oa, we also came across a large herd at the Singing Sands. Mind you, they’re rather timid and won’t allow for closer look.
5.4 LARGE MARINE ANIMALS
You may be surprised to know that Islay is part of the Hebridean Whale Trail! However, spotting a whale off Islay is still quite a rare occasion (rare but possible with a bit of luck!).
Whenever near open water you may look out for dolphins, orcas, porpoises (Port Askaig is great for watching these!) occasionally a sperm or a humpback whale makes an appearance, so look out for those distinctive fins cutting the water!
Waters around Islay hide many secrets and unexpected wildlife; did you know that you can watch sharks in Scotland?! Yes, that’s correct! A real bonus on top of whale watching in Islay is a chance to spot majestic basking sharks!
5.5 DEER
Despite rural character, large mammals feel very much at home on Islay. The best example is deer which, similarly to feral goats, can be expected anywhere on the island.
5.6 WETLAND/GRASSLAND BIRDS
Islay is a true wonderworld for birdwatchers! Species that feel particularly at home on the island are: Barnacle Goose, Hen Harrier, Lapwing, Corncrake and White-fronted goose to mention a few. From these the Barnacle Goose deserves special attention, in autumn and winter Loch Gruinart Nature Reserve is home to massive population of these beautiful birds! Coming from as far as Greenland and Svalbard the Barnacle Gees love spending winters in mild climate of Islay!
Hen harrier is pretty much extinct from England, but Islay’s population of these majestic birds of prey stands very strong.
5.7 THE ELUSIVE ADDERS
I appreciate that usually the adders are associated with additional care required along the hiking trails, but they do have some enthusiasts, and it would be a shame not to mention their presence on Islay’s sister island, Jura. These elusive reptiles are very difficult to come across, as they made home in only a few areas of Scotland. Having said that, if you’re keen on spotting one, you have a pretty good chance on Jura!
WHAT WE LOVED THE MOST ABOUT VISITING ISLAY
We mentioned it many times in the article that a visit to Islay was amazing, both from the scenery point of view as well as experience. We can’t recommend it enough to you! Yes, we appreciate that getting to Islay may be tricky and is lengthy, but we would jump at the prospect of re-visiting, anytime! We loved hiking trails of Islay, the coastal paths and beaches, obviously! Moreover, we were taken by surprise by Islay’s abundant wildlife! Hopefully we planted a thought of Islay in your mind, and surely you should allow it grow and plan a trip to the island! Yes, Islay is mainly known as the ‘whisky island’, but there’s so much more the island can offer; don’t miss a chance for an amazing holiday on beautiful Scottish island! Explore Islay! … and get in touch with us, tell us your experience 🙂
