The beautiful and untamed Isle of Jura is located in Argyle and Bute region, along the west coast of Scotland. The island is home to the wild Paps of Jura, cone shaped hills of quartzite that provide a challenging yet rewarding hiking experience.

If you’re a seasoned hiker looking for a walk in remote Scottish location to enjoy solitude and spectacular scenery, the Paps of Jura are a great choice! 

To experience the best of Jura’s hikes you don’t have to commit to climbing all 3 Paps (a long and hard day out, in difficult, mostly pathless terrain), but can choose to conquer Beinn an Oir (from Gaelic: Mountain of Gold), the highest of the three; or combine the Beinn an Oir with either Beinn Shiantadh or Beinn a’Chaolais. The choice is yours!

We were visiting Jura during Covid-19 and were only allowed to stay on Jura for a day, hence we opted for conquering Beinn an Oir only, to make sure we catch the last ferry back to Islay (we have missed it unfortunately as walking on Jura was much tougher than we anticipated).

Below we’re sharing how to conquer the Paps of Jura, what to expect along the way and how to prepare for the walking adventure on Jura, a remote Scottish island!

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Paps of Jura walk, handy info

• Parking: dedicated free parking area directly past the bridge on river Corran, off road A846 (directions). No facilities.
• Trailhead for all Paps hikes: directly at the old bridge over river Corran, signposted path over stile
• Level of difficulty: hard, 4/5 -long walk, pathless sections, very boggy approach.
• Paps of Jura weather: weather forecast the Paps of Jura/Beinn an Oir
• Which map: Ordnance Survey Explorer 355 Jura & Scarba
• Online Apps: the existing hiking paths near Paps of Jura are marked on Maps.me, or Mapy.cz, OpenStreetMaps.com

 

 

 

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The Paps of Jura is a name given to a group of 3 mountains, all located in the heart of southern Jura. The Paps are similar in characteristics; all feature crags, quartzite scree and bushy grass, making the Paps quite challenging to conquer. From the three, two Paps are basically pathless (Beinn Shiantadh  and Beinn a’Chaolais), and only one (Beinn an Oir) features a rough path, however the route still includes a pathless ascent to the foot of the mountain.

OK, I think you’ve got quite an accurate picture of the Paps now, let’s move on to some practical information!

How to get to Jura

Despite being located relatively near the Scottish mainland, getting to Jura is not straightforward. Basically the easiest (and pretty much the only) way to get to Jura is via Isle of  Islay. To get to Islay take the Calmac ferry from Kennacraig, on the mainland, to either Port Ellen or Port Askaig.

Then, a small ferry between Port Askaig and Feolin, operated by Argyle and Bute Council, takes you to Isle of Jura.

Another option, only available in high season is an infrequent ferry from Oban to Port Askaig via Isle of Colonsay.

With all of the above in mind, you won’t be surprised to hear that a car comes incredibly handy when travelling to Islay/Jura. The main Islay ferry harbour, in Port Ellen, is on the opposite side of the island to Port Askaig, approx 40 mins drive over small roads.

Important: last ferry from Jura to Islay leaves Feolin around 7pm (in the summer and early autumn), so ensure to make it on time!

Getting around Isle of Jura

Again, the best way of exploring Jura is by car. Public transport on Jura is rather limited and infrequent.

Able bodied visitors may want to consider exploring Jura by bike, however such venture requires good stamina! Jura can be described as anything but flat, hence when deciding for a bike ride in Jura you should prepare for a hilly challenge over mostly single track roads with car traffic.

Hiking trail to the Paps of Jura

In the introduction we mentioned that a keen walker can choose between climbing all 3 hills, picking 2 hills or conquering the highest Pap only. Below we’re sharing the details of all options.

#1 CLIMB ALL 3 PAPS OF JURA 

Climbing 3 mountains: Beinn Shiantadh, Beinn an Oir and Beinn a’Chaolais
Time required: 9-12 hours
Total distance: 17 km / 11 miles
Level of difficulty: hard (steep pathless ascents and descents over loose rock)

The hike starts at the small bridge over river Corran. Having arrived to the dedicated parking area walk back to the bridge and look out for a path just at the bridge, it is signposted ‘The Paps walk’. The trail descents to the river level, passes a stile over low fence and winds over an open meadow with high grass and heather, some distance from the river. The trail is generally wet, and some sections can be hard to cross even during a dry week. The ground underfoot is quite soft.

Follow the path straight ahead until Loch an t’Siob, use stepping stones to cross over Corran, and look out for a very faint path directly on the other side of the river; you may be able to spot the walked on ground. These of you who decide to complete the full round and climb 3 Paps can expect a hard and slow climb over mostly pathless, scree slope of Beinn Shiantaidh. With relief you’ll see a cairn marking its top, but the challenge is far from over, as the descent on the other side of the mountain is not easy and requires as much focus and stamina as the climb. Having descended the tricky terrain of crags, rock, scree and rough grass you’ll face the second Pap of the day, Beinn an Oir. Getting to the top of this one is easier, as it features a path all the way to the top.

Again, the descent from Beinn an Oir presents a challenge as it’s very steep and pathless, with plenty of loose rock underfoot.

Once you descended on the eastern side of a lochan, look out for a faint path towards Beinn a’Chaolais. This final climb is hard, route finding is tricky and ascent is very steep.

Once you’ve climbed the third and final Pap of the day, the best way down is retracing you steps to the foot of Beinn a’Chaolais and taking a faint path descending towards Loch an t’Siob in the distance.

Some may recommend the return along the southern shores of the loch, but it’s a very wet route. However, we believe that the path along the northern shores of the loch offers a much better walking experience, as it’s clear and dry, and we recommend this return route (marked faded red on the map)

#2 CLIMB BEINN AN OIR ONLY

Climbing 1 mountain: Beinn an Oir
Time required: 7-8 hours
Total distance: 13 km / 8 miles
Level of difficulty: moderate/hard (short pathless section)

This route starts at the very same spot as the full round of Paps and can be found at the old bridge over river Corran, just a couple of steps from the dedicated car park. Look out for a trail at the western side of the river (immediately past the bridge when looking from the parking lot). The path will take you over a stile and come to an open swampy grassland. Keep to the wide, well trodden trail as it runs slightly uphill, this trail is very easy to follow although sometimes it crosses very boggy spots (easy enough to by-pass).

The path runs in parallel to the river, but some distance away, on a slightly higher ground before finally arriving to the stepping stones at the Loch an t-Siob. Cross the river and keep to the trail that runs over the loch shore. The path is now narrower than the initial section, but still clear and good to follow.

Ensure to take breaks to admire the mighty scree slopes of Beinn Shiantadh, such proximity to the mountain can make a person feel humbled. Look out to the far end of the loch and try to spot a small boat house, a rare sight over remote Scottish lochs. Having passed the loch and the mighty scree slopes look up for a better view of Beinn an Oir, your destination of the day.

The next section of the hike is a pathless climb to the upper pass between Beinn an Oir and Beinn Shiantadh. Try to identify the lowest point and make it your access spot to the upper bowl. Indeed, the climb over pathless slopes with rock and rough grass is strenuous, but the height is gained quickly.

While in the pass between the two Paps you’ll come across a path that meanders between small lochans and wet ground. It does take you to the grassy pass; a green diagonal line across the scree slope. This trail rises relatively gently and offers stunning views to all 3 Paps of Jura and a spacious glen. If lucky your only companion in the hills will be deer grazing gracefully.

The ‘diagonal’ path reaches the far end of the mountain and the final climb to the top of Mountain of Gold begins. The trig point and wind shelter mark the summit and are visible from the distance.

Apart from the other 2 Paps, Beinn an Oir offers overview of most of Jura and remote beaches along the western shores of the island, Jura’s scenery at its best. And we do assure you, the views are splendid and worth the effort of a lengthy hike!

We recommend returning to the car park along the very same route, you will already have known the terrain and the way.

#3 CLIMB A PAIR OF PAPS

Climbing 2 mountains: Beinn an Oir + Beinn a’Chaolais, or alteratively Beinn Shiantadh + Beinn an Oir

Time required: 8-9 hours
Total distance: 13-16 km
Level of difficulty: hard (extensive steep pathless sections)

From the two ways to climb a pair of hills only, we think that Beinn Shiantadh + Beinn an Oir is slightly easier and shorter option, you will be able to follow a path for approximately half of the hike. How to complete such hike?

Look above to the chapter where we explain the walk over all 3 Paps, follow it until the top of Beinn an Oir, hill number 2. Instead of descending a pathless scree slope towards Beinn a’Chaolais, retrace your steps along the ‘diagonal path’ and climb down a pathless slope to reach the bottom of a lower glen. You will come across a narrow, yet well defined trail that runs towards the loch, crosses Corran, and subsequently returns to the car park.

To climb a pair Beinn an Oir + Beinn a’Chaolais follow the description for Beinn an Oir only till the summit, then descent from Beinn an Oir over a challenging and very steep slope towards a small lochan. Once on the lower ground look out for a faint path towards Beinn a’Chaolais. This final climb is hard, route finding is tricky and ascent is very steep.

Once you’ve climbed Beinn a’Chaolais, the best way down is retracing you steps to the foot of Beinn a’Chaolais and taking a faint path descending towards Loch an t’Siob in the distance. You can pick a trail along the southern shores of the loch until reaching the stepping stones you used before, but this time don’t cross. Instead, follow the wide and muddy path back to the bridge. Or, better, follow a good path on the northern side of the loch -this one provides a more pleasant and dry walking experience, recommended.

Walk to the Paps of Jura, what to expect

To recap on the experience of hiking in the stunning scenery of Jura.

Depending on the route you pick you can expect extensive pathless sections (3 Paps or 2 Paps route) or a good path most of the way (Beinn an Oir). Whichever option you pick you can still expect the trail (between the bridge and the loch) to be wet and muddy. As soon as you begin climbing to the Pap of your choice, expect a lot of loose rock and scree, and a steep ascent/descent.

Navigation along the walk to the 3 Paps of Jura is tricky, whereas if hiking to Beinn an Oir only – it’s much simpler. The 2 Paps option also presents some navigation challenges due to complex terrain.

Any option you take, in bad weather expect difficult route finding, and surely a very wet approach.

We hope that the potential downsides won’t discourage you from taking the trail and hiking in Jura! Our experience of Paps of Jura was amazing, we did enjoy every minute of the walk (mind you, we were blessed with glorious sunshine!), and the scenery took our breath away! We would gladly revisit this remote corner of Scotland.

Local wildlife

Hiking along the trail to the Paps of Jura you’re very likely to spot deer grazing on the hill slopes and high meadows. The deer always is a nice and welcome view. As per our experience the grazing deer was totally unbothered by human presence, but we did not seek contact with the animals and walked the trails in a wildlife friendly manner, quietly and in contemplation of the nature around.

Another wild animal you may come across while hiking on Jura is adder, Scotland’s only venomous snake. During our hike we did see a small adder sunbathing on the path, but the close encounter was safe.

The possibility of seeing adders along the trail should not discourage you from walking to the Paps of Jura, however you should find out how to behave (or how not to behave) when coming across one, and be cautious while walking thru high grass.

Adders, what you need to know to stay safe

As I mentioned above, adders are Scotland’s only venomous snake. You should know that coming across one is quite a rare occurrence, as they’re very elusive and avoid contact with humans.

But in remote wild areas, such as Jura, you have a chance to see one. Scottish adders are generally small in size (the one we saw was a ‘baby’ size, slightly bigger than a dry heather twig). In fact I thought it was just a dry twig, but I noticed it moved as I was to make a step and put my foot just in front of it (obviously I noticed the movement and skipped a step, thanks goodness for hiking poles that helped me to keep balance!)

Are Scottish adders dangerous? Despite being venomous, adders’ bites are rare and very rarely life threatening, although still an unpleasant and painful experience. Adders will only attack when feel threatened, and the bites in Scotland usually occur when a person, or a dog, tries to pick the snake. Again, it’s important to keep the distance if one is spotted, and leave them alone.

As most snakes, adders are only active in late spring-summer-early autumn period, These are the times you may be lucky to spot one, usually from morning till noon they rest in well sun-lit, warm spots.

The most common biting places are hands and arms (when a person tries to pick the snake), less often feet/legs (if stepped on/near a snake).

I have been bitted by an adder, what to do?  Rule number 1: don’t panic and call emergency number, stay on the spot (assuming that the adder has gone).

I wish I knew more about adders and safety before the hike, I wish I have read an article like this one.  If, like me, you have no knowledge of these elusive reptiles you should definitely have a good read of the article above.

And lastly, although the adders do live on Jura, you’re unlikely to come across one, so you shouldn’t get stressed about it.

Wild camping near the Paps of Jura, campsites and accommodation

Please be aware that the last ferry from Jura to Islay leaves Feolin around 7pm (summer to September) and you may face the issue of spending the night on Jura, if the hike takes longer or you’d like to see more of the island.

In fact this happened to us, we missed the last ferry back to Islay by a hair, as we took our time walking and taking countless photographs along the trail. The additional, unplanned time on Jura was very easy to fill, we visited local pub in Craighouse (great food and friendly atmosphere) and explored the coast near Knockrome.

In simple words, the solitude and remoteness of Paps of Jura offer some amazing camping opportunities. However, if you’re not keen on camping, browse accommodation in Jura on Booking.com

If, however, you’re caught by nightfall while hiking to the Paps of Jura, you should be OK to find suitable camping spot and a piece of flat, dry-ish pitching ground. These would be easiest found along the trail up to Loch an t-Siob, and at the loch itself. Please keep in mind that you’re only a guest in the wilderness and be cautious not to disturb local wildlife, not to polute water and leave the place as you found it (or better!).

The nearest campsite is located in Port Charlotte, Islay. Please check availability before arriving +44 1496 850441

What we loved about the paps of Jura

Despite the obvious (a hard day out and surprise encounter with Scotland’s most elusive animal) we loved the hike to Beinn an Oir and wholeheartedly recommend it to you! The stunning landscape and remote location make Jura a perfect place to find solitude and connect with nature. The hike is straightforward enough to give you chance to focus on the scenery and the unique quartzite hills.

 

 

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