There are many mountains called Ben More in Scotland, we can easily think of at least three other ‘Ben Mores’ we climbed (Ben More Coigach, Ben More Assynt, Ben More Crianlarich…), to distinguish Ben More of Isle of Mull the mountain is often referred to as ‘Ben More Mull’, we will use the name further in this article as well.

Ben More means ‘Big Hill’ in Gaelic and indeed it is the highest peak on Isle of Mull, and the only Munro. The characteristic triangular shape of Ben More dominates landscape of island and can be seen from miles and miles around!

Hand on heart, Ben More is the finest hike on Isle of Mull, one that will satisfy beginner walkers as well as seasoned hikers and adventure thirsty keen scramblers! If you’re visiting the beautiful Isle of Mull along Scottish west coast ensure to reserve a day for a hike to Ben More! However, choose a good day for it, day with clear sky, to fully appreciate the 360 degree views it offers.

There are 3 possible ways up Ben More Mull and we’re sharing details of all three routes for you to decide which sounds the best and is the most suitable for your abilities.

Surely, we do have our own favourite and will encourage you to follow our footsteps!

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Ben More, Isle of Mull

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How to get to Isle of Mull

Isle of Mull is located along the west coast of Scotland and can be reached by Calmac ferry, route Oban to Craignure (see timetable) as well as a boat route Kilchoan to Tobermory. The island is a popular destination, hence we strongly recommend booking the ferry in advance, to avoid disappointment.

Getting around isle of Mull

Getting around Isle of Mull is quite easy, either by your own means or public transport. The easiest, of course, is bringing your own car or rental, however the island offers good public transport.

To name a few of your options of exploring Isle of Mull, apart from bringing your own vehicle, you can use public transport operated by West Coast Motors (timetable), by bike (electric bike hire available in Salen), rental car (available in Salen, Tobermory and Craignure), or by taxi.

 

3 HIKING ROUTES TO BEN MORE MULL

The rooftop of Mull can be reached by 3 routes, each differs in difficulty and length. Let’s have a closer look:

OPTION 1 : starting point: Dhiseig car park. The easiest and shortest route to the top of Ben More, a well trodden ‘tourist path’, total distance 9.5km (there and back), good path throughout, although unmarked, level of difficulty: moderate (2-3/5)

OPTION 2: starting point: Dhiseig car park. The best options for walkers keen on adventure, with good head for heights and scrambling experience. The route climbs to the top of Ben More by ‘tourist route’, but continues further to A’Chioch (steep descent from Ben More, involves scrambling), and finally returns to the main road and Dhiseig by the boggy glen at the foot of Beinn Fhada. Total distance 17km (circular), level of difficulty: moderate/hard (4/5), clear path throughout. (This route is best completed clockwise with a scramble up Ben More rather than down). This route can be extended by adding a climb to Beinn Fhada.

OPTION 3: is the least known route that climbs to Ben More from the south rather than Dhiseig (north). Starting point: crossroads B8035/A849 near Uluvalt. This route is mostly pathless as it climbs muddy slopes to the ridge of A’Chioch and scrambles to Ben More. We don’t recommend this route, but we felt we should mention the less known option for your information. Estimated distance 15-17km (there and back), level of difficulty: hard (4/5), mostly pathless.

Our preferred route is Option 2 and we’re presenting the details below! We believe it is a perfect combination of unique scenery, hiking experience, scrambling and excitement!

How to get to Ben More Mull trailhead in Dhiseig

The easiest and most reliable way to get to Ben More Mull trailhead in Dhiseig is driving, unfortunately the bus does not serve Dhiseig. A well trodden trail to the top of Ben More leaves from the dedicated car park (grassy area between the road and a beach).

Just a note for cyclists: please keep in mind that the parking area doesn’t offer bike rails and you may be able to secure your bike to the power posts only (2 posts near the trailhead). Alternatively, I believe there would be no harm in asking to keep the bike for a day at one of the the farms nearby.

Ben More Mull hike; what to expect, and our experience

First time we tried to hike Ben More we were put of by the strong wind. It was so windy, that we couldn’t open the car door once we arrived at the car park. Somehow the idea of walking and struggling against the wind was not appealing. We still had few more days on the island and decided to come back another day. And we did the next day! The wind was weaker, but we were not convinced that it will be safe to walk on the ridge, so opted to hike up on ‘tourist route’ and assess the conditions once we got to the top.

Hence we did the hike anticlockwise, despite the original plan to walk it clockwise and this is a route described below. However, if you do not like going down on loose stones, mildly exposed, steep sections opt for reversed route (clockwise).

Having arrived to the dedicated car park cross the road and take the wide track signposted to Dhiseig farm, follow the track for about 200 meters and look out for a path forking to the right at the bend just before the farm buildings and surrounding trees. Once you leave the farm track a path will take you up the side of a gentle small hill, as it sticks to Anhainn Dhiseig, a stream.

The trail to Ben More Mull only leaves the stream briefly before rejoining its rocky bed higher up. Although the path is unmarked and climbs a grassy slope you will have no problem to follow it, in fact it is a well trodden trail, clearly visible. This initial section of hike to Ben More climbs over grass, with some wetter spots, however as you reach higher ground you will note that the terrain underfoot changes from grass to stones.

For us, the change from grassy trail to a stony path was very welcome, we felt we gained speed at the gentler, stony trail and the top of Ben More was only minutes away! Also, the view behind was mesmerising, rough grey upper slopes of Ben More contrasted with yellow and green of lush grass of the plains below.

Although Ben More Mull is very popular with hikers and walkers, the trail was relatively quiet and we didn’t feel crowded (until we reached the summit, that’s when we discovered how popular Ben More really is!)

The top of Ben More seems to be a sharp point when looking from the car park, but in reality, it is spacious and easily accommodates a small crowd of walkers.

Make sure to take your time at the top, explore the viewpoints and look ahead to what’s awaiting – the scramble down toward A’Chioch.

Well done, you have reached the rooftop of Isle of Mull, you can now decide whether to retrace your steps along the tourist trail (and if you do, you will have completed ‘Option 1’ route), or alternatively as per our recommendation take the next, adventurous section of the hike – scramble down to A’Chioch ridge (to have completed the ‘Option 2’ route).

The eastern side of Ben More cone is steep and made of rough rock. That’s the way forward! Although it may seem very challenging at first, the descent this way is straightforward. You will stumble upon a small path that will take you down to A’Chioch as it meanders between rocks and over drops. You may prefer to climb up sections like this, rather than scramble down, in this case we recommend completing the route clockwise.

Indeed, I admit that at some points I had to apply my favourite approach to steep descents, ‘bum on rock’ (although some may prefer to scramble down facing the rock) and I tore my trousers (and broke a walking pole) but most importantly, the scramble down from Ben More summit was very enjoyable, not too exposed and reasonably easy.

As soon as you’ll pass the steep scramble from the top of Ben More you’ll face a short ridge leading to A’Chioch; follow it. Again, there is a clear path all the way to A’Chioch and the traverse is quite easy. Don’t forget to look back at the massif of Ben More, the mighty rugged giant!

You will be pleased to know that reaching the top of A’Chioch requires only a short uphill walk, and once you set your feet on the small top, the remaining walk will only be downhill and flat. No more ascents!

Pass the top of A’Chioch and continue down to a spacious saddle under Beinn Fhada, where the paths cross. Turn left and walk downhill along a grassy trail (usually a bit wet).

You can also opt to extend the hike by climbing to the top of Beinn Fhada, a faint path will take you there and lead along the NW ridge with a gentle descent to the main road at Scarisdale river bridge.

But putting a climb to Beinn Fhada aside, there are two paths descending from the saddle past A’Chioch, on each side of the stream, both lead to the main road far below; feel free to pick the one that looks more appealing to you. We walked on the left side of the stream and that day the path was nice and dry.

Once at the main road, turn left and walk to the car park, where the hike started.

Ben More Mull hiking map

What we loved about hiking to Ben More Mull

For us, the most fun part was the scramble down from Ben More, we were very excited about that! We also loved the scenery, especially the view over Loch Na Keal and to small islands Ulva and Gometra. Although the trail is well known and very popular, we didn’t feel it was too crowded and walkers didn’t disturb one another, which greatly added to the experience. Once we headed down from Ben More we hardly met anyone and felt all alone in the beautiful nature. We would gladly revisit Ben More Mull and follow the very same route again!

Wild camping near Ben More Mull, nearest campsite and accommodation

As per Scottish outdoor code you are welcome to camp overnight off grid, but you’re asked to adhere to specific campers’ guidelines: leave no trace, stay at least 150-200 metres from nearest dwellings, be invisible from nearest dwellings or the road.

Taking the above into consideration we strongly discourage you from staying overnight at the Ben More parking area (whether in a camper or a tent). We are not aware of any suitable overnight parking areas near Ben More for motorhome/camper stay, therefore we recommend spending the night at the nearest campsite, Salen Bay Campsite in Aros (directions).

Finding a flat and dry spot to pitch your tent along Ben More hiking trail should not present much problem, especially along the lower section of the ‘tourist trail’, however please keep in mind that the higher ground is much rougher and very stony. A’Chioch area is more tent friendly, and the final leg of the trail, the plain under Beinn Fhada is lovingly grassy and flat, albeit it tends to be boggy.

We handpicked this accommodation on Isle of Mull:

Accommodation	Rating
Arle Lodge, Tobermory	8.5 /10
Bramble Cottage, Lochdon	8.5/10
The Bellachroy Hotel, Dervaig	9.0 /10
Isle of Mull Hotel, Craignure	8.1 /10

*Level of difficulty explained:  1– easy walk, mostly flat   2-easy hillwalk, good path   3-moderate, possible some steep sections   4-long hillwalk, possibly some scrambling involved, possibly pathless   5-difficult, possibly pathless, long, requires technical skills

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